this came from http://www.c5-corvette.com/oil_change_procedure.htm

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Introduction - It's Flat!

Due to the special procedure required on the C5 and it's ultra low stance, some out of the ordinary techniques are called for.

If you've looked under for C5, the first thing you probably noticed is that its flat. I mean, we're talking Kansas flat. If you look closer, you'll see that there is no deep sump in the oil pan. It's flat too and extends far to the sides and rear to hold all six quarts of synthetic oil. The practical result of this is that you have to raise the rear of the car in order to get all the old oil out. What would be no big deal on lesser cars is in fact a big problem when you recall that your jack doesn't fit under the nose. Not to fear, the solution is simple, safe and inexpensive.

Rhino Ramps

I was making other purchases at Pep Boys one day when my eyes filtered over a set of ramps. Now, I hate ramps and never use them. In addition, most ramps are too steep for the Corvette to climb without scraping the bottom and just forcing the ramps out of the way. As I turned to other things, I noticed the picture on the box depicted a nice red C5 Corvette perched comfortable on top of the ramps. This got me to take a second look and discover that these ramps have a very low approach angle (17 degrees) that allows even the C5 to make the ascent without trouble. They're also wide enough to accommodate the tires on the C5. These magic ramps are called Rhino Ramps and they're from our old pals at Blitz. They're plastic (scary huh?) and cost only $30. MattWalsh: and they fit in the trunk of your C5! The ramps are the first part of the solution. MattWalsh: You only need one pair. I foolishly bought 2 pairs. You only drive the front up on the ramps - it's impossible to get the ramps in front of the rear tires...

The second item required is one good old fashioned, high quality floor jack. I hope you've invested in a real floor jack and not one of those $29 specials. The extra cost is more than worth it. For everything else to do with your jack you'll want to have a pair (or two) of good solid jack stands. Even though I'm a stickler for stands, the oil change procedure does not require them. MattWalsh: get a jack which has its lifting surface as low to the ground as possible.

Stuff to Get

Before you start, you'll need seven quarts of Mobile One Synthetic 5W-30 oil or Redline 10-30w is a better choice, a good filter (I have found the Mobile One brand to be very good), something to hold all that oil (6.5 quarts), an end cap type oil filter wrench, and a 15mm box end wrench (or a short length socket with an extender). A good supply of paper towels or rags never hurts either. MattWalsh: The end cap I found fit the AC/Delco filter, but not the Fram. The indentations on the end weren't the same. Test it out in the store first.

The Procedure

• Find a location that is absolutely level. The inside of the garage usually works best.
• Get the car and ramps position and just drive right on up. There is some minor scraping of the air dam but it's nothing to worry about.
• Once the car is firmly seated on the ramps, turn it off and set the parking brake and some bricks or something behind the front wheels to keep them from rolling down the ramp.
• Climb underneath and put your drain pan in place.
• Loosen and remove the 15mm pan plug located at the very front of the oil pan. MattWalsh: I had to use a standard size (not deepwell) socket with an extender. I suspect there's no way around it. A deepwell will not fit!
• Let the oil drain out until the flow becomes a trickle.

• Place your floor jack under the rear cross member and jack up the back of the car. MattWalsh: I couldn't get my floor jack to rull under the crossmember. So I went to the side of the crossmember and slid the jack's lifting surface down the slot of the crossmember.

*NOTE:* Allow no one to even think about going under the car while the rear is supported by the jack. Place the rear of the car about six to eight inches above the front.

• You'll notice the flow of oil increase dramatically. Wait until the flow once again slows to a trickle and lower the rear of the car. The oil will usually have to drain for eight to ten minutes minimum.

• Carefully replace the drain plug and tighten. Be *careful not to cross thread or over tighten the plug! Your oil pan is aluminum and you don't want to even think about how much it would cost to replace. MattWalsh: Well, the bozos at the oil change place I last went to got mine on so hard I had to use a hammer to get it off! I guess there is hope if you overtighten, looks as if they really buttressed the area around the plug.

• Once the plug is tight, move your drain pan over to the filter. You'll most likely need a end cap type filter wrench to get it off. Be prepared for flowing oil as soon as the filter gets loose.

• Once the flood stops you can finish removing the filter. After the filter is removed and drained, wait for the flow of oil to turn into a drip before moving on. Make sure the old gasket comes off with the filter and that the mating surface on the engine is clean and free of debris.

For the anal, you can re-oil the filter before installation. It's easy and quick. Just pour fresh oil into the filter and keep toping up until the element has absorbed all it can. Just before you install the filter, run a bead of new oil on the gasket to ensure a good seal. Carefully maneuver the full filter into place and tighten. Be careful not to cross thread the filter. The filter should be hand tight and then just a little bit more.

• Remove everything from under the car and then roll the car off the ramps. I guess it goes without saying to not start the engine in doing so.

• Pour six quarts of Mobile One into the crankcase and then wait at least three minutes before starting. After you start the engine, make sure the oil pressure climbs past forty and then hop out to check under the car for leaks.

• To reset your "Oil Life Remaining" display on the DIC, turn the key to on (without starting the car) and select the DIC so "Oil Life Remaining" shows, then hold down "Reset" for five seconds

• Give the oil fifteen minutes or so to settle back down to the oil pan and check the level on the dipstick to make sure everything is right. The oil level should be right in the middle of the operating range hash marks. If you have too much oil make sure you drain it before starting the engine again.

Once you do it the first time you'll find that the whole processes takes far less than an hour. It's as quick as Jiffy Lube and you know that the job has been done right.

-- MattWalsh - 25 Jan 2002